A midday arrival so no time to explore the town, not that as it transpired there is much to see other than the famous road sign (Photo to be blogged). Ketchikan likes to call itself Alaska's First City because it is the first city that visitors see when travelling from the south by cruise ship or ferry. Originally a Tlingit fishing village called Kitschk-Hin meaning "thundering eagle wings creek". The town began to grow in 1884 when an Irishman called Mike Martin set up a fish cannery. By 1930 a dozen or so canneries existed and the town became known as the Salmon Capital of the World. The local fishing is still regarded as some of the best to be had but tourism from cruise ships is the prime basis of the economy today.
A 30 minute bus ride brought us to the quiet marina at Knudson Cove where we boarded a fast "banana pontoon boat" for the 30 minute transfer to a secluded island to follow a boardwalk through the lush temperate rainforest. Our first encounter was with a 6 inch long and fat "banana slug" which our delightful graduate student guide from Colorado, Iris, invited us to "smooch" assuring us that it would bring good luck! Despite her persuasive charm there were not takers!
Meandering through this dark forest which receives over 140 inches of rain a year we marvelled at a 900 year old Sitka Spruce, saw how fallen trees act as nurse logs with sapling trees feeding on the scarce nutrients yielded by the decaying tree. We also witnessed the destruction caused by the logging of Sitka Spruce for Howard Hughes' famous "Spruce Goose" and other vintage fighter planes. As I have already commented Sitka Spruce is very light, flexible and very strong.
After some welcome hot chocolate and a snack of King Salmon smoked on Alder Wood - not Hickory - which is considered inferior we were jetted back to Knudson Cove and out waiting bus back to the ship. A couple of interesting facts from Iris along the way. First the second most common cause of death in Bald Eagles is being drowned by large salmon that can weigh up to 40 pounds. A Bald Eagle cannot release its talons until it is on firm ground so a large fish which it cannot carry may pull it below the surface. The prime cause of death is mating on the wing. If the business is not done as they hurtle down then they crash into the sea or as our guide suggested - she loved cheesy jokes - "if you are a Bald Eagle and don't want to die it is a good time to fake it!"
Back in town I take a few photos and buy - as you do - a Bald Eagle carved in ancient Mammoth Tusk, how true that is I don't know but is very attractive. I also buy a small fruit knife with a scrimshaw decoration on walrus tusk.
Finally I drop into the Pirate Fish Cafe and enjoy Halibut fried in Alaskan beer, even better than at Hoonah.
Sent from my iPad
No comments:
Post a Comment